First, work out which problem you have
"My Wi-Fi isn't showing up" covers two different faults. Open the Wi-Fi list on the struggling device and see what it shows.
- No networks at all. Look at the device first. TP-Link's checklist for this case is all device checks: Wi-Fi support, a working adapter, the wireless switch on.
- Neighbours' networks, but not yours. The device's Wi-Fi works, so check whether your router is broadcasting, whether its name is hidden, whether it uses a band your device can't, or whether you're too far away.
Two quick tests narrow it down:
- Try another device. Apple says that if other devices can connect, your router and network are working; Google's Pixel help says the problem is then most likely with your phone.
- Turn on a phone hotspot. TP-Link suggests checking whether a device that sees no networks can find a phone's personal hotspot. If it can't see a hotspot right beside it, the device is the problem.
If your network appears and your device joins but warns of no internet, see our guide to Wi-Fi connected but no internet.
Checks on the device that can't see the network
Start here if the device sees nothing, or if every other device can see your network.
iPhone and iPad
- Wi-Fi on, Airplane Mode off. Settings > Wi-Fi switched on and Airplane Mode off. Apple also says to check Connectivity Assist, in the Wi-Fi settings, is off.
- Wi-Fi switch greyed out? If the Wi-Fi setting is dimmed and you can't tap it, Apple says to restart the iPhone or iPad.
- VPN or security apps. Apple suggests uninstalling VPN and security software, restarting and testing; if that fixes it but you need the software, contact its provider.
- Try somewhere else. Apple suggests trying Wi-Fi elsewhere, to see whether the issue is only with your network.
Apple notes that if your network doesn't appear, it may be hidden by technology that blocks unauthorised devices, or may not meet Apple's recommended router settings.
Android phones and tablets
Google's steps are for Pixel and general Android; menu names vary by phone maker.
- Wait for the list to refresh. If a nearby network isn't listed, Google says to wait for the list to refresh.
- Wi-Fi on, Aeroplane mode off, then turn each off and on again.
- Restart the phone.
- Test in safe mode. Google's Pixel help says a downloaded app can cause Wi-Fi problems. Restart in safe mode and try the network: if it works there, an app is most likely the cause, so restart normally and uninstall recent apps one at a time; if it doesn't, Google says the problem is likely the network or the internet connection. Aeroplane mode turns on automatically in safe mode, so switch it off first.
Windows laptops and PCs
Microsoft's checks (page checked October 2026):
- Wi-Fi on: select the Network icon on the taskbar and make sure Wi-Fi is turned on.
- Airplane mode off: Settings > Network & Internet > Airplane mode.
- Physical switch: some laptops and tablets have a hardware Wi-Fi switch.
- Adapter enabled: in Device Manager > Network adapters, make sure the wireless adapter isn't disabled (if it is, choose Enable device).
- WLAN AutoConfig: the Windows service that manages Wi-Fi; Microsoft suggests restarting it from the Services app (services.msc).
- Driver: update the wireless driver through Windows Update or from the laptop or adapter maker, or uninstall and reinstall it.
TP-Link says certain Intel Wi-Fi adapters on older drivers cannot detect 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6) networks at all, and that Intel's latest driver fixes it. Its exceptions are the Intel AC7265 (Rev.C), AC3160 and AC7260, which are end-of-life and get no driver updates.
Is your router actually broadcasting?
If no device in the house can see your network, look at the router (your provider may call it a hub). It may be on and online but not sending out Wi-Fi.
Lights and buttons
TP-Link's checklist for a network that doesn't show starts with the router's WLAN (wireless) light and any Wi-Fi on/off button. Virgin Media says its Hub's lights show its status; our guide to what broadband hub lights mean explains how to read them.
Wi-Fi switched off in the hub's settings
Many hubs let you turn wireless off in their settings, and some let you switch off one band only: TP-Link's routers have an Enable tick box for each band (Enable Wireless Radio on some models), all on by default.
BT doesn't recommend turning wireless off, but its help page (checked October 2026) shows where the switch is in Hub Manager, which you open by typing 192.168.1.254 into a browser on a connected device: Advanced Settings > Wireless on the Smart Hubs, and Settings > Advanced Settings > Continue to Advanced Settings > Wireless on the Home Hub 4 and 5 (both ask for the admin password), or Settings > Wireless on the Home Hub 3.
BT hub | What the setting is called |
|---|---|
Smart Hub 3 | "Disable all wireless" (affects both bands) |
Smart Hub, Smart Hub 2, Ultrafast Smart Hub | A "Wireless" switch, ON or OFF (affects both bands) |
Home Hub 4 and 5 | "Wireless network enable" Yes/No for each radio (2.4GHz and 5GHz); the Wireless light shows orange if one or both aren't broadcasting |
Home Hub 3 | "Broadcast SSID" Yes/No |
SSID means the network name, so if a Home Hub 3 has Broadcast SSID set to No, read the hidden-network section below too.
The catch: BT's Home Hub 4 and 5 instructions say that if wireless is off you'll need to connect with an Ethernet cable. On any hub, a wired laptop is the practical way back into the settings to switch wireless on again. Other providers' hubs use their own address and login, so check their help pages.
A Wi-Fi schedule
If your network disappears at the same time every night, look for a schedule. TP-Link's routers, for example, have a Wireless Schedule (Advanced > Wireless > Wireless Settings) that switches Wi-Fi off between set start and end times on chosen days, and TP-Link says some models can keep certain bands on during the off period, so one band's name can vanish while another stays. BT's help page on turning hub Wi-Fi on and off doesn't mention a schedule; if you can't find one in your hub's settings, ask your provider.
Restart the router properly
Apple suggests unplugging the router (and any separate modem) and plugging it back in, which it says refreshes the network connection, and updating the router's firmware (its own software). Virgin Media's advice is to reboot the Hub by turning it off and on again, and only reset its settings if that doesn't work. After a reset, Virgin says, you reconnect your devices using the network name and password on the Hub; our guide to finding a forgotten Wi-Fi password explains where to find them.
Is your network name hidden?
Every Wi-Fi network has a name, also called an SSID (service set identifier). Apple defines a hidden network as one whose name is not broadcast. TP-Link's routers call the setting Hide SSID: with it on, the name won't appear in your device's list, and you have to type the name and password in by hand.
To join a hidden network you need the exact network name, (case-sensitive), its security type (for example WPA2 or WPA3) and the password.
- iPhone and iPad: Apple's iPhone User Guide says to go to Settings > Wi-Fi, tap Other, then enter the network name, security type and password.
- Mac: Apple's steps are Wi-Fi status menu > Other Networks > Other, then type the name, choose the security type and click Join.
- Android: Google's steps are Add network, then Advanced options, then set Hidden network to Yes and enter the name (SSID) and security details.
Should you hide your network at all?
Apple's recommended router settings say to set the hidden network option to Disabled: hiding the name doesn't conceal the network from being detected or secure it against unauthorised access, and hidden networks can expose identifying information, so devices may show a privacy warning when joined to one. So the simplest fix is usually to turn name broadcasting back on. Our guide to securing your home router and Wi-Fi covers the settings that actually protect it.
Is the network on a band your device can't use?
Home Wi-Fi uses up to three radio bands: 2.4GHz, 5GHz and, on the newest routers, 6GHz. A device can only see a network on a band its own Wi-Fi hardware supports. Microsoft lists this as one cause, and says to check under Device Manager > your wireless adapter > Properties > Advanced that the Wireless Mode or Band setting allows the band your router uses.
Your router gives each band its own name
Some routers put every band under one network name; others let you split them so each band has its own name. On the BT Smart Hub and Ultrafast Smart Hub, for example, splitting creates a second visible name for the 5GHz band with "-5" added; on the Home Hub 4 and 5 you choose the 5GHz name yourself (BT suggests adding "5GHz" to the existing name). A device without the 5GHz or 6GHz band won't list that band's name, even if your 2.4GHz name shows.
Apple recommends a single, unique name for all bands with every band enabled, and BT doesn't recommend splitting either (its Smart Hub 2 can't). If you've split the bands and a device can't see the name it needs, try the other name or merge them back. Smart-home gadgets are one example: Google's Nest camera help says that in Canada and Europe, Nest products regulated as outdoor Wi-Fi devices can only use the 2.4GHz band, so a 5GHz-only network won't appear in the Google Home app during setup. See our guide to smart devices that won't connect to Wi-Fi.
You're looking for a 6GHz network
6GHz needs a router and a device that support Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7. Apple's list (checked October 2026) of its devices that can use 6GHz is:
- iPhone: iPhone 15 Pro and 15 Pro Max or later, but not iPhone 15, 15 Plus, 16e or 17e.
- Mac: MacBook Pro (2023) and later, MacBook Air (2024) and later, MacBook Neo, and iMac, Mac mini, Mac Studio and Mac Pro from 2023.
- iPad: iPad Pro 11-inch (4th generation) and 12.9-inch (6th generation) or later, iPad Air (M2) or later, and iPad mini (A17 Pro) or later.
If the 6GHz band has a different name from the others, Apple says its devices flag the network as having "limited compatibility" and offer the 5GHz network instead. It also notes 6GHz features aren't available in all regions.
Don't assume a router has 6GHz just because it's Wi-Fi 7. YouFibre's standard Hub is dual-band (its Hub Pro adds 6GHz), and Zzoomm and toob describe their Wi-Fi 7 routers as dual-band, 2.4GHz and 5GHz (checked October 2026). Our guides to Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7 and router labels like AX3000 and BE9300 explain the generations and labels.
The router's channel isn't allowed on your device
Each band is divided into channels. TP-Link says some devices don't support certain channels because of regional or country limits, so check your router's channel is one your devices support.
Advice on choosing channels differs. Apple says to set the channel to Auto, and BT prefers its Smart Wireless feature to choose. TP-Link's help for its outdoor access points (not home routers) says that if devices can't see the network and the channel is set to Auto or a radar (DFS) channel, you should select a non-DFS channel by hand. So leave Auto on first, and pick a channel yourself only if the symptoms in the next section fit.
5GHz that vanishes for a few minutes: radar channels
If your 5GHz network disappears for a short while and then comes back, radar avoidance is a possible cause, because part of the 5GHz band is shared with radar. Router maker NETGEAR describes DFS (Dynamic Frequency Selection) as a legally required feature for Wi-Fi devices that share the 5GHz band with radar: it lets a router detect radar signals and switch frequency so it doesn't interfere.
TP-Link, in a help page for its outdoor access points, says that before using a DFS channel the equipment listens for 1 to 10 minutes without broadcasting its network name, and that most phones support DFS channels so should see the network except during that check. That page isn't about home routers and NETGEAR gives no time, so treat it as a guide: a home 5GHz network on a DFS channel may briefly drop out of the list.
Some equipment can't use DFS channels at all. TP-Link says some range extenders don't support them, and its UK help page says an extender's "No Host Network Connection" error is probably because the router's 5GHz is on a DFS channel. It suggests turning off band steering on the router and setting the 5GHz channel to 36, 40, 44 or 48.
Before you change channels
BT doesn't recommend choosing channels manually: its Smart Wireless feature picks the channel with the least interference, and choosing one yourself turns it off. On the Smart Hub and Ultrafast Smart Hub you must split the bands first. On the Home Hub 4 and 5, BT suggests trying 1, 6 or 11 on 2.4GHz and 36, 40, 44 or 48 on 5GHz. Note the original setting so you can put it back.
Too far away, or too much in the way
Sometimes the network is broadcasting but not reaching you; Apple notes you may be too far from the signal. If a device sees the network in one room but not another, suspect distance or obstacles.
- Bands reach differently. BT says 2.4GHz is best when you're a few rooms from the hub and 5GHz when you're in the same room or one room away; ISPreview notes 6GHz has lower coverage than 5GHz. So a 5GHz or 6GHz name tends to drop off the list first in far rooms. Apple suggests trying the other band if your router has separate ones.
- Move the hub. BT's advice is to put it centrally, off the floor, and away from windows, cupboards, the back of the TV and metal; walls, doors, wardrobes and fish tanks all weaken the signal, it says.
- Add mesh or pods. Virgin Media's WiFi Pods pair with its Hub 3, 4, 5 and 5x; Virgin says to place a Pod roughly halfway between the Hub and the weak spot, in the open. Our guide to mesh Wi-Fi vs Wi-Fi extenders compares the options, and if you have a spare router, see reusing an old router as an access point.
Last resorts on the device
If one device still can't see the network, these steps clear its stored Wi-Fi settings. Test after each.
- Forget and re-add the network. On Android: Settings > Network and Internet > Internet, touch and hold the network (or find it under Saved networks), tap Forget, then rejoin.
- Reset the phone's network settings. On iPhone and iPad, Apple's last resort is Settings > General > Transfer or Reset [device] > Reset > Reset Network Settings. It removes saved Wi-Fi networks and passwords, plus mobile, VPN and APN settings, so have your password to hand. On a Pixel, Google's equivalent is Settings > System > Reset options > Reset Bluetooth and Wi-Fi.
- Windows network reset. Microsoft's last step. Windows 11: Settings > Network & internet > Advanced network settings > Network reset; Windows 10: Settings > Network & internet > Status > Network reset.
When to contact your provider, or the device maker
If a device can't connect to any Wi-Fi network, Apple says to contact Apple. If other devices fail too, there may be an outage: Virgin Media, for example, has a service status tool where you can check your postcode. Our guide to what to do when your broadband is down covers whole-home outages.
TP-Link says that if the Wi-Fi still can't be seen after resetting the router, it may be a hardware issue; with a provider hub, ask your provider about a replacement. Tell them:
- Your hub model and what its lights are doing.
- Whether any device sees the network, and whether a wired connection works.
- What you've tried, and whether it affects one band or both, or happens at particular times.
Our guide to getting a newer router from your provider explains how hub upgrades usually work. If you're near the end of your contract and want kit that suits your home better, you can compare broadband deals at your postcode, or see current packages on our BT broadband deals and Virgin Media broadband deals pages. We compare deals through a partner tool; we don't switch you ourselves.
Wi-Fi not showing up FAQs
Why can my phone see my Wi-Fi but my laptop can't?
If one device sees your network, the router is broadcasting, so look at the laptop. Microsoft says the adapter may not support your network's band (check Device Manager > adapter > Properties > Advanced). TP-Link says some Intel adapters on older drivers can't see Wi-Fi 6 networks until updated, and the Intel AC7265 (Rev.C), AC3160 and AC7260 get no further driver updates.
Why does my 5GHz Wi-Fi disappear for a few minutes and then come back?
Radar avoidance is a possible cause. Equipment on the 5GHz DFS channels must switch frequency when it detects radar, and TP-Link, writing about its outdoor access points, says it then listens for 1 to 10 minutes without broadcasting its name. If it keeps happening, ask your provider before fixing a channel; BT recommends 36, 40, 44 or 48 on its Home Hub 4 and 5.
Will a factory reset of my hub bring the Wi-Fi back?
It can, at a cost. BT says a factory reset of its Home Hub 4 or 5 (press the reset pinhole with a pin until the Power light goes orange) switches wireless back on but returns every other setting to default. Virgin Media's reset is a 10-second press of the Hub's pinhole button, then 5 to 10 minutes to start up; it suggests an off-and-on reboot first.
Why can't my Nest camera or smart device find my Wi-Fi during setup?
Google's Nest help says to scroll right to the bottom of the network list in the Google Home app, as weaker networks usually appear lower down, and that in an area with lots of Wi-Fi networks yours can take a while to appear. In Canada and Europe it says outdoor-regulated Nest products need a 2.4GHz network, and hidden names need entering by hand under Other network.
Why does my Wi-Fi network vanish at the same time every night?
A regular pattern points to a schedule rather than a fault. Some routers switch Wi-Fi off automatically at set times: TP-Link's Wireless Schedule, for example, is under Advanced > Wireless > Wireless Settings, and some models keep certain bands on during the off period. If you can't find a schedule in your hub's settings, ask your provider.
